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mttssn research · Nordic Deep Dive
New Wave (NEWA-B.ST)
Konsument · Svensk märkeskläder/profil- & presentgrossist · LTM Q1 2026
Analysis date: 2026-07-21
Price at analysis: SEK 93.00
Method: mttssn_streamlined_v1
Conviction: MEDIUM
HOLD
Conviction: MEDIUM
New Wave is a founder-led branded-apparel and promo/gifts wholesaler that only thinly creates value — adjusted ROIC 8.8% barely clears the 8% WACC and EP is +SEK 77m (0.8% margin on IC). Invested capital is ~96% working capital and intangibles, inventory turns just 0.9x, and an ERP/warehouse investment phase is compressing margins (8.6% Q1'26 vs 9.7%). The price prices in growth not currently being delivered, leaving no margin of safety. HOLD.
Adj. ROIC
8.8%
WACC 8% → spread +0.8pp
Economic Profit
+SEK 77M
+SEK 77m (0.8% margin on IC) — thin, WC-sensitive
FCF Yield
n/a
Record-based; absorbed by inventory build + capex
Price / Target
SEK 93 → SEK 85
-9% base; HOLD
Revenue (LTM)
SEK 10.2B
LTM Q1'26; branded apparel promo/gifts wholesale
EBIT Margin
11.1%
Op margin 8.6% Q1'26 (vs 9.7%); target 20% aspirational
EV / IC
n/a
Enterprise value / invested capital
Net Debt
n/a
Net debt SEK 3,021m ≈ 43% of equity; cover 6.0x
Thesis

New Wave Group designs, acquires and develops owned apparel brands — Craft, Cutter & Buck and others — sold through corporate/promo and retail channels. It is an acquisitive brand roll-up: FY2025 added Cotton Classics (goodwill +SEK 215m), and goodwill plus trademarks (SEK 1,814m) are 26% of equity, indefinite-life and unimpaired.

The economics are thin: adjusted ROIC 8.8% barely clears the 8% WACC and economic profit is just +SEK 77m (0.8% margin on IC). The defining feature is working-capital intensity — inventory of SEK 5,776m is 57% of LTM revenue and turns only 0.9x, so IC is ~96% working capital plus intangibles and ROIC swings on inventory efficiency.

A deliberate investment phase (ERP/IT, the Dallas warehouse) is compressing margins near-term (operating margin 8.6% Q1'26 vs 9.7%) against an aspirational 20%-through-cycle target versus ~11% LTM, while leverage rises (net debt SEK 3,021m, cover 6.0x from 8.3x) and the dividend is cut to SEK 3.00.

Valuation · reverse-DCF & scenarios

Capitalising adjusted NOPAT of SEK 856m: at zero growth EV is ~SEK 10.7bn versus the actual ~SEK 15.4bn, so the market already prices ~2% perpetual growth. Netting SEK 3,021m debt over 132.7m shares, GDP-growth fair value is ~SEK 85 — slightly below the SEK 93 price. There is no reverse-DCF discount at a time when margins are compressing.

Base SEK 85 (−9%) de-rating toward through-cycle economics with margins still soft; bull SEK 120 if the margin target advances, working capital normalises and operating leverage lifts EP; bear SEK 62 on a consumer downturn, inventory write-downs and further margin compression on the levered, WC-heavy balance sheet.

Market-implied growth
≥8.4%
model ceiling — EV implies more than constant-ROIC sustains
No-growth value / share
SEK 62
66% of price; rest = priced-in growth
ROIC − WACC
+0.8 pp
ROIC 8.8% vs WACC 8.0% — positive = value creation
CAP (priced-in)
30.0 yrs
years of excess returns the price implies (fades to WACC)

At today’s enterprise value the constant-ROIC reverse-DCF maxes out: even at its sustainable-growth ceiling (~8.4%, limited by ROIC 9% ≈ WACC 8%) it cannot reach the current EV. No-growth value is SEK 62/share (66% of price); the market prices in growth and/or a higher ROIC than booked — richly valued on this lens. Read the sensitivity grid.

Scenario24m targetImpl. gUpsideProb.Driver
BullSEK 120≥8%+29%25%Margin target advances + WC normalises + operating leverage
BaseSEK 85≥8%-9%45%De-rate toward through-cycle economics; margins still soft
BearSEK 62+1%-33%30%Consumer downturn, inventory write-downs, further margin compression
Prob-weightedSEK 87-7%100%Scenario-weighted expected value

Sensitivity — fair value / share at WACC × growth

WACC \ g0%3%5%8%10%15%
6.50%9097101107111122
7.25%747880838690
8.00% (base)626465666768
8.75%525353535350
9.50%454544434237

Green = fair value above the current price of SEK 93.00. The reverse-DCF conclusion is dominated by WACC and growth — see the whole surface, not a single fair value.

Method & data. NOPAT SEK 856, invested capital and ROIC 8.8% are observed (adjustments.json); WACC 8.0% and terminal g 2.5% are assumptions. EV→equity uses net debt SEK 3,021. The model holds ROIC constant (no fade) over the explicit horizon; the CAP figure instead fades excess returns to WACC.

⤓ Download the full model (.xlsx) — formula-driven sheets; flex the blue input cells and the model cascades in Excel.

Key drivers

1. Owned-brand portfolio

Craft and Cutter & Buck give some brand pull and a platform for geographic and channel expansion.

2. Margin-recovery optionality

The ERP/warehouse investment phase, once through, could lift the operating margin toward the through-cycle target.

3. Working-capital release

Faster inventory turns from the current 0.9x would free capital and lift ROIC materially — the key swing factor.

4. Acquisitive roll-up track record

A long history of integrating brand acquisitions (Cotton Classics latest) with no goodwill impairments.

5. Founder alignment

Torsten Jansson's control aligns long-term stewardship, and the dividend cut signals capital discipline.

Key risks
Conclusion

New Wave is a founder-led brand roll-up that clears its cost of capital only thinly (ROIC 8.8%, EP +SEK 77m) on a working-capital-heavy, cyclically-exposed model, and the market already prices in growth it is not currently delivering. HOLD, medium conviction; base target SEK 85 (−9%).

The path to a better entry is margin recovery toward the through-cycle target plus faster inventory turns — until then valuation offers no cushion and the risk sits with WC intensity and rising leverage.

Footnote evidence & sources

Every adjustment traces to the cited note/page in the source filing — click to open it there. Annual report / 10-K: 📄 open  ·  Latest interim: 📄 open

Adjustment / figureValueSourceWhy mttssn treats it this way
LTM net sales10,164Consolidated income statement, 12 months apr-mar 2025/26 📄 p.4LTM rolled column shown directly in Q1 2026 IS (FY2025 10,019 - Q1'25 2,184 + Q1'26 2,328 = 10,164).
LTM operating result (adj EBIT)1,129Consolidated income statement, 12 months apr-mar 2025/26 📄 p.4Clean APM — reported operating result used as adjusted EBIT, no restructuring bridge disclosed.
Inventory5,776Consolidated balance sheet 31 Mar 2026 📄 p.9Largest single IC component (57% of revenue); core capital-intensity risk of apparel wholesaler.
Total equity7,097Consolidated balance sheet 31 Mar 2026 📄 p.9IC equity base at latest interim snapshot; NCI = 0.
Accumulated OCI (Reserves)586Changes in equity — Reserves 442 (2025-12-31) + 144 Q1'26 OCI 📄 p.6558Translation/hedge reserve stripped from equity so IC reflects deployed operating capital, not FX swings (SEK strength drove -709 translation in FY2025).
Interest-bearing debt ex-lease2,647Net debt to credit institutes 2,076 + cash 571 📄 p.10Credit-institute debt separated from lease liabilities per company's own net-debt-to-credit-institutes definition.
Lease liabilities in IC945Total IB liab 3,592 - ex-lease 2,647 📄 p.9Store/warehouse ROU leases are primary operating assets -> capitalized in IC; no NOPAT add-back under IFRS 16.
Goodwill1,252Note 8 Intangible assets — closing book value 📄 p.7342Brand-rollup goodwill (Corporate 614 / Sports & Leisure 576 / G&HF 61); indefinite-life, tested at 8.5% WACC, no impairment.
Trademarks562Note 8 Intangible assets — closing book value 📄 p.7342Indefinite-life brand intangibles (Orrefors, Kosta Boda, Craft, Cutter & Buck); PPA amort ~5m/yr kept in opex.
Tax rate (LTM effective)0.242LTM tax 245 / pretax 1,013 📄 p.4LTM effective rate used for NOPAT (Q1 2026 effective rate 23.1%).
Quality · Buffett tenets7 / 15
Understandable business
Founder-controlled branded-apparel promo/gifts wholesaler — designs, acquires and develops owned brands (Craft, Cutter & Buck) sold through corporate/promo and retail channels. Understandable model with a long history, but structurally inventory-heavy.
Durable moat
[immateriella(brand) · stabil] owned brands (Craft sportswear, Cutter & Buck golf) plus promo-distribution scale give some pull, but branded apparel is competitive with thin pricing power. Test: adjusted ROIC 8.8% barely clears the 8% WACC (+0.8pp) and the operating margin is compressing (8.6% Q1'26 vs 9.7%), so no sustained price premium is visible. Falsifier: brand-relevance decline or promo-channel disintermediation. Frame: mid-tier retail spread +0.8pp.
Able & honest management
[allokering · candor] founder-controlled (Torsten Jansson), long track record of brand roll-ups; the 2025 Cotton Classics deal (goodwill +SEK 215m) sits alongside SEK 1,252m goodwill tested annually at 8.5% WACC with no impairment — clean. Dividend cut to SEK 3.00 (from 3.50) is prudent in an investment phase. Röd flagga: rising leverage (interest cover 6.0x from 8.3x) with the inventory build and acquisitions.
Financial strength
Adjusted ROIC 8.8% ~ 8% WACC, EP only +SEK 77m (0.8% margin on IC); invested capital is ~96% working capital + intangibles, inventory turns just 0.9x. Net debt SEK 3,021m (43% of equity), cover down to 6.0x — resilient but returns are marginal and WC-sensitive.
Margin of safety
At EV ~SEK 15.4bn the market prices ~2% perpetual growth the company is not currently delivering (margins compressing), so the reverse-DCF gives little-to-no discount to price. The 20%-through-cycle margin target is aspirational vs ~11% LTM.